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Wednesday, February 5, 2014

A Jarring yet Tubetastic Few Days

While preparing for this trip, Inge and I talked to a lot of people about their experiences here. As you can imagine, everyone's opinion was different. Just about the only thing people tended to agree on was that we should definitely go. Where, for how long, and what we should do or skip was different with every person we asked. We weren't surprised by our varied advice. People like different things. Inge and I have been doing everything together this entire trip, and if you asked us about this area our advice would be just as different. But one thing that I think we definitely agree on is how glad we are we did not skip Laos. Most of the people are very friendly, the mountains in the area are breathtaking, and the very relaxing atmosphere makes you feel like nothing can go wrong.

After leaving Luang Prabang, we headed to the city of Phonsavan and its intriguing Plain of Jars. The Plain of Jars is quite simply that: a plain scattered with groups of different sized jars carved from granite. Some groups are only a dozen, while others number into the hundreds. Although most people have heard of them, no one can quite explain where they came from or why they are there. There are several theories of course. Some think they were used to store water, while others think they were used to store local rice whiskey also known as "Lao Lao". The most widely supported theory is that they were used as decomposition chambers for bodies. Once the bodies had decomposed, the remains were scooped out and given a proper burial. Whatever their use, no one can argue what a marvel it is that people could have made and transported these extremely heavy jars over 2000 years ago. Especially considering how small Lao people tend to be.

As beautiful as the area was, it had a very sobering side to it as well. Laos was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War, and although its been 40 years since that terrible time the people are STILL dealing with the aftereffects. America dropped over 2 million tons of cluster bombs on Laos during the war, 30% of which never exploded upon hitting the ground. That's 80 million bombs that never exploded and are still waiting to be set off. Over 300 people every year die from stumbling on these Unexploded Ordinances (UXOs). Thousands more lose limbs or are otherwise heavily injured. Over 50% of the victims are children. While there are several organizations working to collect and destroy these bombs, it is a monumental task. Only 1.3 million bombs have been removed in the past 15 years, leaving tens of millions more waiting to be exploded or tripped on.

Our next stop on the journey was much more relaxing. The infamous Vang Vieng is known for its beautiful scenery, cheap amenities, and hugely popular party scene. While the partying has tapered off in recent years, it's still present. Our first day there was spent tubing down the river, hanging out with newly met friends, and otherwise enjoying the festivities. It was our friend Becca's birthday, and I'm sure it won't be one that she forgets anytime soon. The next day we decided to explore the scenery, and spent a few hours hiking the area and exploring the caves and hidden lagoons everywhere.

We're currently in a brief stopover in Vientiane (capitol of Laos) while we prepare to shoot down south for our last few stops. The capitol is quite beautiful. Like almost everywhere we have been so far in Laos, it is a quiet, charming city that sits right on the river. There are signs everywhere of it's once French colonizers, but all of these things come together to give the capitol it's own unique flavor. It's one of the smallest capitols I've ever been to, but also one of the most charming.

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